Start off by taking you slab of slate and rinsing it with some warm water to get any dirt off. I then put mine in a carboard box, took it outside and smashed it with a hammer until you get some small based sized pieces. Put these smaller pieces in a colander and rinse them with warm water to get all the stone dust off. Set them out on paper towels to dry.
Once the stones are dry use super glue to affix them to bases (1). Arrange them randomly (nature is random!), with some layered on top of others, using varying sizes. Once these have dried use either sand and glue to cover the cracks in between and all over the rest of the base. Prime them once you are done. If use a GW texture paint (I used Stirland Mud, and Armageddon Dust) prime the bases before applying. Paint the flock or texture paint before moving onto the stones. I washed the Stirland Mud with Athonian Camoshade, and the drybrushed with Baneblade Brown(2, 3).
Painting the Slate
I started off using 2 coats of Zandri Dust, I thinned down the paint a bit with water and then applied the color all over (4). Be sure to get the underside of any stones that go over the lip of the base.
The next step is to make a wash using Ushabti Bone (5). To do this put some Ushabti Bone on your pallet and thin it using water. You want to get basically the consistency of milk. Paint it all over the stones. This is going to allow a little bit of the darker base coat to show through and will add depth.
Then wash with Reikland Fleshshade (6), followed by Seraphim Sepia (7). Thin your washes with Lahmian Medium. I happened to have a couple pots old pots of ‘Eavier Metal Medium. I assumed it was just the precursor to Lahmian Medium and was renamed when GW redid their paint line. It’s actually shiny, and was an unexpected surprise when my stones dried shiny. If you want to achieve the same effect add a few drops of ‘Ard Coat when you thin the shades. You could also trying using the gloss version of the shades.
Once your shades have dried completely lightly drybrush over the whole stone using Screaming Skull (8), followed by Terminatus Stone (9). In this dry brushing step concentrate on the edges of the stone and any cracks.
It’s a good idea to have a picture of marble nearby to reference so you can get an idea of the spider-webby type lines that run through the stone. Start by using Administratum Grey and thin using Lahmian Medium (this doesn’t need to be shiny so don’t add ‘Ard Coat) (10). Paint lines over the rock, using your reference picture as a guide.
Thin Dawnstone Grey as above, and paint this on top of your Administratum Grey lines (11). There should be Administratum grey showing through on either side of these lines. Use this color to cover approximately 70% of you Administratum lines. Use a smaller brush than you did with the Administratum to achieve this.
The thin Mechanicus Standard Grey as above (12). Using very small feathery brush strokes paint this on top of your Dawnstone lines. I also used this darker color to make some more marble veins that did not have lighter greys underneath them. I covered about 40% of my Dawnstone lines.
Once this is done you should have stones that look like marble!
If you have stones that you placed very close together, to simulate a larger stone that fell and cracked, drybrush in the same direction across these and when painting the marble veins run them across to the neighboring stones.
When you have multiple stones drybrush them in different directions.